Words: Monica Tindall
Photos: Han Sen Hau
The 20-minute boat transfer to Six Senses Ninh Van Bay quickly blows the bustling city of Nha Trang behind us. The cool evening air cleanses our lungs, and the wind on our skin gives us a second lease of life, even after our long train journey from Quy Nhon.
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay
We’re on a whirlwind tour down the central coast of Vietnam, so we barely scratch the surface of what’s available to guests at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay. Arriving at night, we have time for a quick meal before heading to bed, a sunrise cruise the following day, a healthy breakfast, a resort tour and a sleep-inducing (in the very best way) lunch.
The Six Senses brand has been around for over 30 years, ahead of all competitors, with its focus on sustainable luxury and well-being. While many properties are only just catching on, Six Senses has gone well beyond simply going plastic-free and asking guests to reuse their sheets and towels. It’s a model, living, breathing, acting on their green philosophy, and always striving for ways to do things even better.
From producing bumper crops of fruit and vegetables on their organic farm, raising hens in the chicken “villa” (guests can collect their own eggs for brekkie!) and upcycling used glass bottles into furniture to producing energy from their solar farm, cleaning and bottling their drinking water, protecting the critically endangered black-shanked douc langur, and engaging guests in activities that are both appealing and educative, there’s much to admire about the brand’s determination to do good.
So Vietnamese
Before we hit the hay, we dine on a weekly special, So Vietnamese Family Dinner (VND 1,800 per guest) at Dining by the Pool. This set menu is ideal for two and showcases ingredients and recipes from this region.
Dining by the Pool is just as its name suggests, with some tables even “in” the pool. The stone floor is surrounded by water, softly lit with underwater lighting. Chairs are made from bamboo and fabric, blending seamlessly with the natural setting. Stylish blue crockery dresses the table on a beige table runner. Ceiling fans circulate the air, making dining in the semi-outdoor setting very pleasant.
Vietnamese Appetisers
Each section of the So Vietnamese Family Dinner is delivered together. From the appetisers, the green mango salad is a common dish throughout the country. It’s vibrant and fresh with the shredded young fruit, carrots, crushed peanuts, a sprinkling of herbs and a tasty sweet and sour sauce dressing. Unlike many others, though, the dried anchovies stand out, adding umami and depth of flavour beyond the norm. There’s also a hard prawn cracker on the side meant for breaking into pieces and using as a scoop for the salad – “Like nachos,” suggests Han Sen.
Also, to begin, minced beef wrapped in betel leaves is served with a green garden salad. The mince is marinated in chilli and oyster sauce before rolling in the highly aromatic leaves and later grilled. They’re topped with roasted crushed peanuts, which you can dip into the sweet and sour sauce on the side. As with many Vietnamese dishes, the tangle of local greens contrasts the richness of the meat, providing balance.
The last of the starters, a chicken and river-leaf creeper soup, is warm, comforting and surprisingly refreshing. The river leaf, or lá giang in Vietnamese, is native to the region and is addictively sour. It’s reminiscent of a Thai soup with a tangy finish but without the spice.
Live Charcoal Grill
The main course features proteins from the land and the sea done on a charcoal grill and presented on a huge banana leaf. There are local clams and oysters grilled with peanuts and onions. The catch of the day – big-eye fish and red mullet – along with calamari and tiger prawns, have also been grilled until tender. The latter comes with a special sauce for dipping made of green chilli, salt, lime juice and a little bit of condensed milk to balance the saltiness and sourness of the other ingredients. From the land, chicken wings and pork ribs have been marinated in a light satay sauce. There’s soy sauce, red and green chillies and a lime wedge on the side for adding to taste. Garlic fried rice ensures no one leaves hungry.
Vietnamese Desserts
A duo of sweet treats, steamed layer cake and lotus seed sweet soup, are equalised with a seasonal fruit platter. The green cake is made with tapioca and rice flour and is given its green hue with mung beans. A coconut sauce is drizzled over the top. The soup, made from seeds of the national flower, is said to be a cooling recipe, popular in the summer months. The platter of fruit comes with a side of chilli salt for sprinkling on the watermelon. It’s an unusual combo.
Appetites satiated, it’s time to rest.
Private-pool Villas
Located at the tip of a peninsular, only accessible by sea, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay has the feel of an isolated tropical island. Sixty-two private pool villas are hidden along the beach or on the hillside. Our beach villa, marked by an engraved wooden board with our names, not a number, is pretty darn close to heaven. Bicycles, also personalised with wooden name tags, are parked out front.
It’s enormous. We have our own pool and a direct private path to the beach. All of the materials in construction, furnishings, and fittings are natural: stone, wood, ceramics, and organic cotton; there’s not a hint of plastic in sight. It feels good to be here.
The bedroom, with a daybed and desk, opens to a deck with sunchairs in the shade of the patio, a pool and another two recliners for the sand and the sun. The birdlife we see from here is wild! Little guys resembling hummingbirds, fantails and more flit amongst the branches. However, even more exciting is the family of black-shanked douc langur that reside in the trees neighbouring our villa. These leaf-eaters seem to nibble all day long, bouncing from bough to limb.
The bathroom is just as big as the bedroom, with a separate shower, toilet, double sinks, drawers, a wardrobe, and the most magnificent wooden bathtub—mineral salts included. The glass walls look out to a private courtyard with dual outdoor showers. All products are packaged in recycled paper, and even the toothpaste is in tablets rather than plastic tubes.
On the second floor, there’s an open-walled living area with a cushioned swing, lounge, and mini-bar, which includes coffee, tea, and water. From here, the views look over our pool, a thick scrub of sea bushes, a white-sand beach, blue water and colourful fishing boats bobbing on the surface. It’s as if someone has curated the postcard-perfect scene and aligned it just for us.
Sunrise Cruise
After a wonderful night’s sleep (the great outdoors, sun and sea are the best antidotes to insomnia), we rise early for a sunrise cruise. We’re on the water at 5 am on a small wooden boat, just like a local fishing boat but fancy. There are three places to lounge: two uncovered and a shaded daybed. As we glide around the bay, we are served a light brekkie: fruit, pastries, bread, ham, cheese, Vietnamese coffee, and watermelon juice.
Protected by the peninsula, we need to navigate to the other side to see the sun ascend from the horizon. On the way out, we see a fishing village on our right and the lights of the city in the distance. In this boat, we’re low and close to the surface. The gentle sway is like being rocked in a cradle.
Tuan guides us on this expedition. He’s ready with coffee and stories. He has been with Six Senses for twelve years and is proud of its beauty, care for the earth, and personalised guest experiences. We see Nha Trang in the distance and its rows of high-rise hotels. Tuan tells us the government is encouraging the development of tourism and hospitality, but we are far removed from the masses here. As we pass around the tip of the headland, the rocking increases. It’s still a gentle glide through the water, but now our big brother is rocking us, not grandma.
The forecast predicts sunrise for 5:20 am, but it’s overcast, and we are not able to view it today. Sunrise or not, it’s been a beautiful awakening, almost a morning meditation, and we return to shore feeling like we got a head start on the day.
Healthy Breakfast
Then we’re on to a healthy breakfast at Dining by the Bay.
Dining by the Bay, as the name suggests, overlooks the beautiful cove. It’s framed by trees on one side, the golden sand beach bordered with lush vegetation on the other, and red and navy-blue wooden fishing boats gently swaying with the current.
Breakfast is a compact, high-class buffet. Each item is presented in small portions and replenished when needed, keeping things fresh and tidy. Fire Cider serves as a welcome shot, awakening the senses and supposedly boosting the immune and digestive system. Apple cider vinegar, white and red onion, orange, lime, lemon, ginger root, garlic, cinnamon stick, dried turmeric, lemongrass, rosemary, peppercorn, pineapple and honey all go into the mix. Our server offers us a toothful before we commit to a full shot. It’s sharp and savoury – certainly revitalizing.
Vietnamese specialities such as fried pork, banh mi, dumplings and various soups rotate throughout the week, giving guests something new to try daily. Eggs are made to order, and there’s a good-looking pastry section. A cold room holds cheese, cold cuts, salads, yoghurts, cereal, nuts, seeds and even a matcha melon smoothie bowl.
A drink station offers wellness water (infused with the positive energy of crystals), kombucha, fresh-pressed juices and smoothies, and even a glass of bubbly if you so choose. Tea, Vietnamese coffee and espresso-based drinks are available with regular milk or dairy-free alternatives. It’s an impressive start to the day.
Resort Tour
Post-brekkie, a whiz around the resort by buggy with our helpful Guest Experience Manager (GEM), only makes us yearn for a longer, much longer stay. Our time is far too short to even scratch the surface of what Six Senses Ninh Van Bay can provide. Trường, our GEM, is only a WhatsApp away, assisting us with bookings, sharing information and buggying us around.
Besides the obvious beach and sea activities, it’s a hiker’s dream. There are currently several trails ranging from 30 minutes to two hours, with more routes coming soon. Even if you don’t do a trail, the paths around the resort are shaded with arches of trees, and there’s an abundance of hills and a long stretch of beach to stroll. There’s both an outdoor jungle gym and another air-conditioned room on the hilltop with gorgeous views of the treetops, sea, and rolling hills beyond.
I’m positive the spa is worth returning for on its own merits. Beyond the expected facials, body treatments and massages, it’s home to an integrated wellness program. Guests can sign up for a full assessment and then have personalised meals, exercise and spa sessions to meet their goals.
We zoom by the Earth Lab, Alchemy Bar, Organic Gardens, and Langur Lounge, where you can learn about and support the resort’s green projects. We also notice Vooc Village, a kids club with a fantastic playground made from natural materials—no plastic here. We’ve heard The Farmhouse, where you can feast on a vegan meal directly from the farm, and Grandma’s Kitchen, where you can learn to cook, are something special, too.
Eat with Six Senses Ninh Van Bay
We have time for one last meal before we head off to Nha Trang and spend it exploring the Eat with Six Senses program.
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay takes wellness dining to a whole new level with its Eat with Six Senses program. This initiative goes beyond just healthy options; it’s a customised approach that works in tandem with the resort’s wellness programs. Whether you aim for better sleep, a detox, or a fitness boost, the menu caters to your specific goals. Guests can sign up for a health screening and consultation with the knowledgeable Wellness Director, Leonardo Altomar, and then work with Executive Chef Timothy Goddard to tailor a menu that’s not only delicious but specifically designed to support your chosen program.
The playful yet informative menu descriptions add a touch of whimsy to the experience. Gone are the days of bland diet food. Here, “Lactose is out. Vinegar is in,” and every dish bursts with flavour while adhering to the core principles: natural, local, and sustainable. Fresh, whole ingredients, minimally processed, take centre stage. Think farm-to-table on steroids, with 90% of the produce coming directly from the resort’s farmhouse.
Desperately needing more sleep, Leo and Tim help plan a multi-course meal of sleep-promoting ingredients. We begin with the “Shades of Relaxation” drink, a refreshing blend of spinach, lemon, passion fruit, and apple. This is followed by a visually stunning appetiser of beetroot triangles filled with goat’s cheese perched on cucumber rings. The shaved beetroot offers an elegant contrast to the creamy cheese, while the inclusion of magnesium-rich nuts provides a subtle nod to its sleep-supportive properties. The main course is a feast for the eyes as well, featuring a vibrant avocado and sweet potato tartare, followed by a creative combination of mushroom and tofu roe wrapped in zucchini, drizzled with a green mustard leaf sauce and a touch of wasabi. The meal concludes with a trio of delicate mango ravioli, filled with a tropical medley of mango, complemented by a refreshing coconut sorbet, nut crumble, and passionfruit sauce – a light and satisfying end to a sleep-promoting feast.
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Review
Our stay at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay has come to an end all too quickly. Here, luxury aligns with responsibility, creating an unforgettable escape that nourishes both body and soul. Whether you seek deep relaxation amidst pristine nature, a taste of authentic Vietnamese culture, or a springboard for a transformative wellness journey, Six Senses Ninh Van Bay offers an unparalleled experience that lingers long after the last sunrise cruise.
Reasons to stay at Six Senses Ninh Van Bay: an incredibly beautiful location; a resort that lives, breathes and practices sustainability in every facet; loads of healthy choices in environment, food and activities; delicious food; gracious service team.
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa
Khanh Hoa 650000, Vietnam
reservations-ninhvan@sixsenses.com
+84 258 3524 268 +84 258 7307 788
www.sixsenses.com/en/resorts/ninh-van-bay
@sixsensesninhvanbay
Link to Six Senses Ninh Van Bay on Google Maps
Read more about gourmet and luxury travel in Vietnam here and stay updated with the latest gourmet and travel recommendations with The Yum List on Facebook here.
